Exterior guide
What is the best exterior paint for Florida sun and humidity?
The best exterior paint for a Florida house is the one matched to the surface, the exposure and the condition of the wall, applied over proper prep. The brand on the can matters less than most people think.
Still, coatings are not all the same, and the choice is worth understanding before you sign off on a job. This guide covers the main types of exterior paint, primers, sheens, colour and heat, and what to ask your painter. For how we approach the whole job, see exterior painting.
What Florida asks of exterior paint
- UV resistance. Strong sun most of the year breaks down the binder in paint, causing fading and chalking.
- Moisture and mildew resistance. Humid air, dew and daily summer rain feed mildew and algae.
- Flexibility. Walls heat up and cool down every day. A coating that cannot flex cracks.
- Breathability where it is needed. Masonry holds and releases moisture. Some coatings let it pass; others block it.
- Salt tolerance near the water. Salt film and corrosion on metal add to everything above.
The main types of exterior paint
100% acrylic latex
The workhorse for most Florida exteriors. Good flexibility, good colour retention, breathable, easy cleanup and easy to recoat in future. Quality acrylics are formulated for masonry, siding and trim alike, and for most sound walls this is the starting point.
Elastomeric coatings
Very thick and very flexible, applied at a much heavier film than regular paint. They can bridge hairline cracks in stucco and shed driving rain well. They work best on sound, clean masonry in good condition, and they are not a fit for every wall: they are less breathable, and some existing coatings are not good candidates to go under them.
Oil based and alkyd paints
Less common on Florida walls now. They can be useful on certain trim, doors and metal, but they tend to become brittle and yellow in strong sun and humidity, and they are not a good choice over masonry.
Coatings for metal
Railings, gates, fixtures and shutter hardware need a rust inhibiting primer and a finish made for metal. Ordinary wall paint on rusty metal fails quickly near salt.
Primers: the step people skip
Primer is not the same everywhere. The right one depends on what is underneath.
- Masonry primers and sealers for bare stucco, block and patched areas, so the finish coats bond and look even.
- Block filler for bare, porous concrete block.
- Bonding primers for chalky surfaces that have been cleaned but are still slightly powdery.
- Exterior wood primers for bare or repaired wood, especially end grain.
- Rust inhibiting primers for metal that has been cleaned of loose rust.
- Stain blocking primers for water stains and tannin bleed on certain woods.
Sheen: how shiny the finish is
- Flat and matte hide surface flaws and texture irregularities, which suits stucco and block walls. Harder to clean than higher sheens.
- Low sheen and eggshell add a little washability while still being forgiving.
- Satin is common on siding and areas that get touched or splashed. Easier to wash.
- Semi-gloss and gloss are typical on trim, doors, shutters and railings. Durable and easy to clean, but they show every flaw in the surface.
Colour and heat
Colour is not just about looks in this climate.
- Dark colours absorb more heat. On a wall in full sun, that means more expansion and contraction, more stress on the coating and on caulk joints, and often faster visible fading.
- Deep, saturated colours such as strong reds, blues and greens can shift noticeably over time in strong sun.
- Light and mid tones are more forgiving, stay cooler and show fading less.
- Doors and accents are a good place for bolder colour, because they are smaller areas and easy to repaint.
Some paint ranges also offer colours formulated to reflect more heat. Worth asking about if you love a darker look.
Why prep matters more than the can
The most expensive paint on the shelf will still peel if it goes on over salt, chalk, mildew or a damp wall. The order of importance for a long lasting exterior is roughly:
- Cleaning and drying the surface properly.
- Repairing cracks, rot and rust.
- Priming what needs priming.
- Choosing a coating suited to the surface and exposure.
- Applying it at the right thickness, in the right conditions.
Questions to ask your painter
- Which product will you use on the walls, the trim and any metal, and why?
- Which areas need primer, and which primer?
- How many coats, and at what coverage?
- What sheen will each surface get?
- How will the colour I want hold up on the sunny side of the house?
Questions we hear
What sheen is best for a Florida exterior?
Flat or low sheen finishes hide surface flaws on stucco and block. Satin is a common choice for siding and wide areas that get touched, and semi-gloss is common on trim and doors because it is easier to clean.
Do light colours really last longer in the sun?
Generally, yes. Light colours absorb less heat and tend to show fading less than deep, saturated colours, which can shift noticeably on walls in full sun.
Is one coat paint and primer enough?
On a sound, previously painted surface in a similar colour, it can cover well. On bare, patched or chalky surfaces, a separate primer and two finish coats protect better.
Does paint need a mildewcide in Florida?
Most quality exterior paints already include mildew resistant additives. Proper cleaning and treatment of existing mildew before painting matters more.
Not sure which coating your house needs? See exterior painting, or call (727) 490-9640 and we will look at the surfaces with you.